Diamond Quality Explained: Lab-Grown and Natural Diamonds

Round brilliant diamond held in tweezers for grading

Every diamond we sell comes with two grades: a colour grade and a clarity grade. This guide explains both in plain English, shows you what they look like, and explains why our lab-grown and natural diamonds carry different grades.

Round brilliant diamond held in tweezers for grading, on a dark background

Every diamond has two grades

It doesn't matter whether a diamond is lab-grown or natural. Both are graded on exactly the same two scales:

Grade 1 · Colour
A letter, D to Z

How white the diamond is. D is perfectly colourless; the further down the alphabet, the more yellow.

Grade 2 · Clarity
A code, FL to I3

How clean the diamond is inside. FL is flawless; codes like VVS1 and SI1 sit in between.

So when a product page says "D colour, VVS1 clarity", the letter tells you how white it is and the code tells you how clean it is.

What you get with FSS

On many of our pieces you can choose between a lab-grown and a natural diamond. Each comes with its own pair of grades:

Lab-grown diamond
D colour · VVS1 clarity
Colour DThe top grade — perfectly colourless
Clarity VVS1Near-flawless — clean to the eye

The whitest, cleanest stones, at a price that suits everyday fine jewellery.

Natural diamond
H colour · SI1 clarity
Colour HNear colourless — looks white
Clarity SI1Eye-clean — nothing visible

A stone formed in the earth, graded where natural diamonds give the best balance of beauty and value.

Why the grades differ: a natural D colour, VVS1 diamond is very rare and would cost many times more. Lab-grown lets us offer the very top grades affordably. For natural diamonds, we choose grades that look white and clean to the eye without paying for rarity you can't see.

Colour: see the difference

The colour scale, set by the Gemological Institute of America (GIA), runs from D (the best) to Z. Slide through the grades:

Tap a grade (or use the arrow keys) to see how the colour changes →

FSS lab-grownFSS natural

D · Colourless — the top grade

Completely clear, no trace of colour. The highest colour grade a diamond can have. This is the colour of our lab-grown diamonds.

E–F · Colourless

Still colourless. Only an expert comparing stones side by side could tell them from D.

G–H · Near colourless

Looks white to almost everyone once set. The best value in natural diamonds. Our natural diamonds are H.

I–J · Near colourless

A hint of warmth you may notice beside a whiter stone. Looks lovely in yellow gold.

K–M · Faint colour

A slight warm or yellowish tint, most visible from the side.

N–R · Very light colour

A yellow, brown or grey tint that's easy to see.

S–Z · Light colour

A clear yellow or brown body colour. Z is the lowest grade.

Colours are exaggerated so you can see the difference on screen. In real life, D to H look white to most people.

Good to know: colour is hardest to see in small diamonds like the ones in our jewellery, and yellow or rose gold makes any diamond look slightly warmer anyway. That's why near-colourless grades such as H look so good in yellow gold.

Clarity: see the difference

Almost every diamond has tiny natural marks inside, called inclusions. Clarity grades describe how many there are and how easy they are to find under a jeweller's 10x magnifier. Slide through the grades:

Tap a grade to see what a grader finds under 10x magnification →

FSS lab-grownFSS natural

FL–IF · Flawless

Nothing visible, even under 10x magnification. Extremely rare.

VVS1 · Very, very slightly included

Marks so tiny a trained grader struggles to find them under magnification. Invisible to the eye. Our lab-grown diamonds are VVS1.

VVS2 · Very, very slightly included

Still extremely hard to find, even with magnification.

VS1–VS2 · Very slightly included

Small marks visible under magnification only.

SI1 · Slightly included

Marks you can find with a jeweller's loupe, but not with your eyes — this is called eye-clean. Our natural diamonds are SI1.

SI2 · Slightly included

Marks are easier to find under magnification; some may be seen with the eye from underneath.

I1–I3 · Included

Marks you can see with the naked eye, and they can dull the sparkle.

Marks are drawn larger than life, as if magnified 10x. At VVS and VS you won't see anything with your eyes.

The key word is eye-clean: nothing you can see without magnification. Both of our qualities, VVS1 and SI1, are eye-clean.

Three loose diamonds in heart, cushion and round cuts on dark fabric

Cut and carat, in brief

Cut is how well the diamond's facets are angled and polished. It's what makes a diamond sparkle, and it's different from its shape (round, pear, heart). On the small diamonds in pavé, clusters and stations, how evenly the stones are matched and set matters as much as any grade.

Carat is weight, not size (one carat is 0.2g). On pieces with several diamonds we give the total carat weight. "0.25ct total" on a three-stone necklace means the three diamonds together weigh 0.25 carats.

Lab-grown or natural?

Both are real diamonds: the same carbon crystal, the same hardness (10, the hardest there is), the same sparkle. The difference is where they come from and what they cost.

Lab-grown Natural
Is it a real diamond? Yes Yes
Where it comes from Grown above ground in a few weeks Formed in the earth over billions of years
Hardness and sparkle Identical Identical
Can you tell them apart? Only with specialist laboratory equipment
Our grades D colour · VVS1 clarity H colour · SI1 clarity
Price Lower Higher, because of rarity
Resale value Low — lab-grown prices keep falling Holds value better
Choose it if you want… The whitest, cleanest stones for your budget A stone the earth made, with rarity and heritage

Moissanite and cubic zirconia are not diamonds

Some of our pieces use other stones, and we always name them on the product page:

  • Moissanite is a different gemstone (silicon carbide). It's very hard (9.25 on the Mohs scale) and shows more rainbow fire than a diamond.
  • Cubic zirconia (CZ) is a man-made crystal. It's bright and affordable but softer (around 8–8.5) and can lose some sparkle over years of wear.

The colour and clarity grades in this guide apply to diamonds only.

Two brilliant-cut diamonds resting on crushed glass

Questions we're often asked

Is VVS1 only for lab-grown diamonds and H only for natural?
No. Every diamond gets both a colour letter and a clarity code. Our lab-grown diamonds happen to be D colour and VVS1 clarity; our natural diamonds are H colour and SI1 clarity.

Will a diamond tester show a lab-grown diamond as real?
Yes. A lab-grown diamond is a diamond, so a standard tester reads it as one.

Do lab-grown diamonds go cloudy or change colour?
No. Like natural diamonds, they stay the same for life. If a diamond looks cloudy, it just needs cleaning: warm soapy water and a soft brush.

Can I wear diamond jewellery every day?
Yes. Diamond is the hardest natural material, and our settings are solid 14K or 18K gold. Take pieces off for the gym and harsh cleaning products, and store them apart so they don't scratch each other.

Explore our diamond pieces: the Trio Diamond Necklace, the Diamond Station Bracelet, the Four Clover Diamond Necklace and the Trinity Diamond Stud Earrings.

Photos: Pexels and Unsplash (free licences). Diamond illustrations: FSS Jewellery.